Tuesday, October 29, 2019

9/9/2019 London with Trafalgar begins, Tower of London on my own

(9-9) Day 1 Trafalgar begins  Arrive London (2 Nights) Hotel = Park Plaza Riverbank Average 68 HIgh 55 Low 21% rain  


Tower Hotel  Call 44 800 330 8005, 44 207 523 5063 St. Katherine’s Way, St. Katharine’s and Wapping, London, E1W 1LD, UK (4.2 star)  Riverside.  Reviews Opened 1973. Located on the north bank of the River Thames and the east side of the Tower Bridge.  Near the Tower of London, the Shard (London’s Highest viewing platform) and more.  Near HMS Belfast, WWII Royal Navy battleship, St. Katherine’s Docks, Butler’s Wharf, City Hall. Reviews indicate staff is good but hotel needs a make-over.  Elevators are slow, only two worked and indicator lights were erratic, several compliants that AC doesn’t work, long lines at breakfast.  XI bar was good, Vicinity Bar was bad.  Long lines at check-in.   No refrig.



Tour INFO "London's vibrant city streets are your launch pad to an epic journey through the iconic sights of Britain. Embrace the pomp and ceremony of this multi-cultural capital, exploring the treasures of its former Empire in museums, rambling through its picturesque Royal Parks or admiring the ancient façades that line its grand boulevards and hidden lanes."

Used a cab to transfer from one hotel to another.  I am in the Tower Hotel near the Tower of London.  It’s a very nice.  I took Kate’s advice and went to the Tower of London which is across the street from the hotel.

The Tower of London is the 1000-year-old castle that protects the Crown Jewels.  It has served three purposes over the years; secure fortress, a royal palace and a prison.  As soon as I entered, I joined a group to hear an introduction offered by a Yeoman Warder.  There are 35 Beefeaters. They got their name because originally they received no monetary pay.  They were given the scraps after the king ate.  The Beefeaters ate and then filled their pockets with scraps to sell to get money.  To be a Beefeater, a man or woman must have served the Queen for twenty-two years and achieved a certain rank in one of the four services and also have received a certain medal.  The thirty-five live on the castle grounds and function as a family.  They have their own pub.  Our female Beefeater talked to us in the Chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula which is where Anne Boleyn is buried along with another of Henry the VIII’s wives.  Another Chapel was St. John’s Chapel.  She told us that when Anne Boleyn was beheaded with a sword she was kneeling and praying.  Accounts say that for twenty seconds after she was beheaded, her eyes were open and moving and her lips were still moving in prayer.  I cannot imagine being a witness...

I spent my day climbing up and down a lot of stairs as I toured different towers.  It was very interesting, but I confess after three hours I was maxed out.  I realize now I missed the area where the king’s exotic animals lived.  What do you give the man or woman who has everything, apparently in their time you gave them a wild animal.  

I toured through the Battlements and saw the Crowns and Diamonds exhibit.  I also saw the Crown Jewels display.  Some of the towers I visited included Bloody Tower, White Tower, Martin Tower, Salt Tower, Cradle Tower, and Lanthorn Tower.  I visited the tower mint and learned about melting metal and separating silver from gold and coin making.  The White Tower had an extensive collection of armor for men and horses in the Royal Armories.  
My last stop was the collection of torturing apparatus.  


Map below is the next two weeks on a Trafalgar Tour.  I begin and end in London.  The 1s and 2s are the number of nights I will stay in that location.  






White Tower

Where the Crown Jewels are kept.


There are always seven ravens at the castle.  Six must be living there at all times according to legend.  So they keep seven to have a spare.  The ravens are fed 170g of raw meat a day and biscuits soaked in blood.  Occasionally, they are given a rabbit with the skin still on.

On the inside against the castle walls are the homes of the Beefeaters.

Those little slots in the walls are the places the bowmen would shoot their arrows at their enemies.






NOT the Original Hotel = Park Plaza Riverbank  (Full Breakfast) 18 Albert Embankment, Lambeth, London SE1 7TJ UK  (4 star) Near Big Ben, the London Eye (15-minute walk, Westminster Abbey (10-minute walk) and Tate Modern.  Close to the Underground and the River. Soundproof rooms.   Low water pressure, sporadic air conditioning, long lines at check-in with rude, inept employees.  There is a pool.  


Wednesday, October 16, 2019

Wed. 10/16/2019. Brussels to Manchester

Wednesday, 10/16/2019, Day 51 total travel.

My flight from Brussels to Manchester went smoothly.  I  am staying at a B&B that I would not recommend. Bamfordlodge.  Really steep narrow steps.  Self-Check-in.  Guests were to take care of themselves.  No info on who to contact with a problem.  No help getting my suitcase down the steps.  No breakfast.  No person anywhere in the morning.  Booking.com, I am disappointed.  According to my phone, I walked 7.1 miles and took 19,037 steps.









I walked around the area and found some interesting places.  The Clink is a restaurant in a former church and it seems that prisoners run the restaurant.
Pictured below. 



 Quarry Bank is a National Land Trust site.  Styal village was a thriving community during the Industrial Revolution.  I saw the Styal village and the Chapel Woods.  There wasn’t time to visit the rest of the site which included a factory, the owner’s house, gardens, etc.    
The Chapel








Styal Cross

I thought this cow had character.  He was along the road as I walked back to my B&B.  



Staying at Bamfordlodge at 60 Hollin Lane SK9 4JJ. Handforth. UK. Call 44 7508 938170

10/17/2019 Flight Manchester England to Philadelphia

10/17  Return to US from Manchester  

(Inbound) Seat 12 J  Economy O Lunch/Snack  
American Airlines 735 7 hr, 50 min. 
-Departing 10:50 AM Thu, Oct 17, Manchester, United Kingdom MAN

-Arriving 01:40 PM Thu, Oct 17,  Philadelphia International Airport Philadelphia, PA PHL

Todd is picking me up.  Thanks, Todd.  

There is a rainbow around the shadow of my plane.



10/15/2019 Atlantikwall to Damme to Flanders

10/15/2019 Tues. Bruges, Belgium • Grand Circle Day 17, Total Travel Day 50.  Ave. Temp - 59 high,  50 low.  Ave. weather - 45% mostly cloudy  32% rain.  According to my phone I walked 8.6 miles and took 20,136 steps today.

Half-day tour of Scenic Belgium, featuring an excursion to the Flanders countryside. First, you’ll take an included tour (with audio guide) of the Atlantikwall—unfinished steel and concrete wall constructed by Germans during World War II to block England from invading German-occupied territory and to protect some of Hitler’s weapons.



My info Atlantikwall is an open-air military museum that includes over sixty bunkers, gun emplacements and two miles of trenches, it dates back to WWI and WWII.   There are uniforms and equipment displayed, also.  
Optional Scenic Belgium tour
• Included Meals: Breakfast
Accommodations: Grand Hotel Casselbergh

TOUR INFO "Enjoy the day at leisure in Bruges. Or, join an OPTIONAL $85.  half-day tour of Scenic Belgium, featuring an excursion to the Flanders countryside. First, you’ll take an included tour (with audio guide) of the Atlantikwall—unfinished steel and concrete wall constructed by Germans during World War II to block England from invading German-occupied territory and to protect some of Hitler’s weapons. From this landmark, you’ll venture to Damme, a former fishing village on the Zwin River, where you’ll embark on the ship that will transport you back to Bruges. As you cruise, you’ll sample some of the quality beers for which Belgium is known.

This evening, join your fellow travelers for a Farewell Drink at your hotel, followed by dinner on your own.

Please note: The visit to Damme and boat ride are not available on trips departing 10/26 and 11/06 due to the closure of Atlantikwall. Instead, travelers will sample artisanal beers during a visit to a local craft brewery, Bryggja Brewery."  We did not go to a brewery. :(



My info
Atlantikwall is an open-air military museum that includes over sixty bunkers, gun emplacements and two miles of trenches, it dates back to WWI and WWII.   There are uniforms and equipment displayed, also.  


This picture was on an introductory information board as we entered the site.

Guns on the beach which rotated.

Other guns were in nests constructed in the dunes.

The network of tunnels were often connected, this was a "Y" in the tunnel.  



Barracks, officers’ quarters, communication rooms, meeting rooms, ammunitions storage, food supplies, etc.were all underground.

This was a gunner's hole.  There were steps to climb up from a tunnel to enter the gunner's hole.  The building supplies came from the surrounding area.  They used what they could find and all the tunnels, rooms, etc appeared to be well constructed.  
I was amazed at the network of tunnels and bunkers and war memorabilia that has been preserved at this site. 

Damme's history begins in the 12th century and was often the site of military battles due to her strategic location.  Some of Damme's defensive walls are still visible.  (We did not see anythng but a restaurant.)


 I did not have a boat ride or beer tasting.  We had a crepe and tea at a restaurant.  Not an equal exchange in my opinion.

This woman made our crepes in the middle of the restaurant.



My mint crepe was good and I could easily have eaten another.

Walked more streets in Bruges in the afternoon.  Great town.


Good bye, Bruge.  Heading home tomorrow.  I need a haircut and a color and some rest.  Note my shoes.  They were the best walking shoes for cobblestone streets.   

Michelangelo’s Mother and Child, his only work that was displayed outside of Italy during his life.  The person that commissioned the statue did not want it as it was too small, so two brothers purchased it.  In 1515, it was donated to The. Church of  Our Lady in Bruge .  


Entrance to Begijnhof, a walled community for lay women (beguines) of the Catholic Church.  Silence was required and you were not allowed to walk on the grass.  It was incredibly peaceful.  More pictures below.







Monday, October 14, 2019

10/14/2019 Mon. Bruge, Belgium to Ypres and Flanders Field Museum & Menin Gate Memorial

10/14 Monday Day  Bruges • Optional Flanders Field tour Day 16 Grand Circle Travel, Total travel Day 49.   Ave. Temps - 59 high,  50 low. Ave. weather - 45% mostly cloudy  32% rain.
According to my phone, I took 10,999 steps today and walked 4.3 miles. 

Join us this afternoon and evening for an optional excursion to Flanders Field, a museum commemorating World War I. You’ll travel to the city of Ypres, now known as
the “City of Peace,” and visit the interactive Flanders Field Museum, where you’ll learn about the Great War and then tour the battlefields. After dinner at a local restaurant, you’ll visit the Menin Gate Memorial and listen to the buglers from the local fire brigade who play every night in remembrance of those lost in the war.

Flanders Field Museum was very interesting.  Stories included the invasion of Belgium, beginning of mobilizations, trench war for four years, the end of the war and remembrance.  Personal stories of how the war affected people of different nationalities personalized the experience.  Equipment used for medical purposes, gas masks and munitions were included. 

On August 4, 1914, The German army invaded Belgium.  In Oct/Nov1914, the first battle of Ypres/Battle of Flanders was trench warfare with more than 100,000 casualties. Opening the locks caused flooding and helped to stop the Germans.  Both sides dug themselves in along the Western Front.   Bread rationing began in 1/1915.  March of 1915, several thousand women demonstrated for peace before the German Parliament.  In the second battle of Ypres (4/22-5/15, 1915), the Germans surprise attack included poison chlorine gas, Ten thousand allied troops were impacted and about half of them died.  The Germans did not realize the full effect of the gas.  There were 100,000 casualties. The Allied forces battled back with underground mines.  May of 1915, a German u-boat sank the Lusitania and 1,198 drowned.  In 4/1916, Belgian workers, equal numbers of men and women,  were deported to Germany to work.  On 5/1916, anti-war demonstrations took place in Germany.  May of 1916, Woodrow Wilson put pressure on Germany and they end the submarine warfare.  April of 1917, Pres. Wilson declares war.  From July 31 - Nov 10, 1917, the third battle of Ypres has British artillery firing 4,283,550 shells at the German lines with 400,000-800,000 casualties.  This was the first time the Germans used mustard gas which blistered skin, eyes, lungs and killed thousands of soldiers in a slow, painful way.    The fourth battle between April 9-29, 1918 had about 200,000 casualties.  The fifth battle of Ypres took place between Sept 28 -Oct 2, 1918 with Allied casualties at 10,000 and German casualties unknown.  The town of Ypres was destroyed and was rebuilt exactly as it was before the war.
  
There are 160 cemeteries within twenty-five square miles holding over 500,000 men.  Belgium gave the land for the Allies.  Four German cemeteries are somber, depressing and dark and Germany must pay rent.  On average 200 tons of iron are brought up out of the ground each year.  Some rounds are live.  The Belgian Bomb Disposal Unit collects these bombs and gas canisters.  The backlog for destroying them is 26,000. 



TOUR INFO
• Included Meals: Breakfast
Accommodations: Grand Hotel Casselbergh Bruges or similar

TOUR INFO.  In Markt square, there is an 83-meter medieval tower from the 13th century with a 47-bell carillon called the Belfry of Bruges.  Pay a fee and climb the 366 steps and enjoy views of the city.  This is another component of the UNESCO world heritage site.  The tower's bells regulated daily life with hourly chimes, fire alarms, work hours, etc.  The bells vary in weight from two pounds to 11,000 pounds.

Tour info. “Introduction to BRUGES, BELGIUM offers canals, cobbled streets, and medieval buildings. In the center of town is the 14th-century Stadhuis (City Hall) with an ornately carved ceiling, located in Burg Square.”

 "Originally a ninth-century fortress built to protect the Flemish coast from marauding Vikings, Bruges today retains its reputation as one of Europe’s best-preserved Old-World cities. The city’s centuries-old canal system, which was essential to its once thriving textile industry, has beckoned tourists to meander its narrow, winding streets in search of art, history, and fine chocolates for nearly two centuries."

 The city was occupied in both WWI and WWII and did not suffer any damage.  The port of Zeebrugge has been an important part of Bruges' history. 

"After breakfast, set off on a walking tour of this former capital of Flanders, Bruge is still defined by its canals. Dating from the 13th century, Bruges is a living museum and a treasure trove of fine architecture. From the 13th to the 15th centuries, Bruges was the most important trading center in Northern Europe, based largely on its thriving wool and textile industries. You’ll see signs of this mercantile history in the beautiful houses built by wealthy textile merchants.
Your walking tour takes you to Church of Our Lady and to Market Square, with its distinctive belfry tower and carillon of 47 bells. You also see (the outside of) the Holy Blood Chapel. Your tour continues with a look at Bruges from another vantage point—aboard a canal boat. Then you’ll visit a lace shop to see some of the world’s finest lacemakers at work. (We saw a woman do a brief demonstration.) You’ll enjoy some free time to have lunch on your own and to explore independently. If you like, you can remain in town for shopping and independent explorations.

Tour info - Join us this afternoon and evening for an optional excursion to Flanders Field, a museum commemorating World War I. You’ll travel to the city of Ypres, now known as
the “City of Peace,” and visit the interactive Flanders Field Museum, where you’ll learn about the Great War and then tour the battlefields. After dinner at a local restaurant, you’ll visit the Menin Gate Memorial and listen to the buglers from the local fire brigade who play there every night in remembrance of those lost in the war.

Flanders Field Museum was very interesting.  Stories included the invasion of Belgium, beginning of mobilizations, trench war for four years, the end of the war and remembrance.  Personal stories of how the war affected people of different nationalities personalized the experience.  Equipment used for medical purposes, gas masks and munitions were included.  

OPTIONAL TOURS Flanders Field
(Day 2 $130 per person)

Join us this afternoon and evening for an optional excursion to Flanders Field, a museum commemorating World War I. You will travel to the city of Ypres, now known as the “City of Peace,” and visit the interactive Flanders Field Museum, where you’ll learn about the Great War and then tour the battlefields. After dinner at a local restaurant, you’ll visit the Menin Gate Memorial and listen to the buglers from the local fire brigade who play there every night in remembrance of those lost in the war. The cost of this optional excursion includes dinner.

My info
Introduction to BRUGES, BELGIUM offers canals, cobbled streets, and medieval buildings. In the center of town is the 14th-century Stadhuis (City Hall) with an ornately carved ceiling, located in Burg Square.

In Markt Square, there is an 83-meter medieval tower from the 13th century with a 47-bell carillon called the Belfry of Bruges.  Pay a fee and climb the 366 steps and enjoy views of the city.  This is another component of the UNESCO world heritage site.  The tower's bells regulated daily life with hourly chimes, fire alarms, work hours, etc.  The bells vary in weight from two pounds to 11,000 pounds. (Pictured below).


Belfry of Bruges Carillon Tower is played live on three mornings each week.  

Bruges was occupied in both WWI and WWII and did not suffer any damage.  The port of Zeebrugge has been an important part of Bruges' history.  The city’s center is a UNESCO site.  

Church of Our Lady has wonderful architecture and beautiful works of art and stained glass.  Pay 4 Euro to see the Michelangelo’s Madonna and Child (1504), said to be the only work of his that was exported out of Italy.   The tower is 379 ft in height.  It is the second tallest brickwork tower in the world.  














Markt of Bruges offers historical highlights including the 12-century Belfry of Bruges (first picture in this post), neo-Gothic West Flanders Provincial Court and statue of Jan Breydel, a butcher and Peter de Coninck, a weaver.  The two patriotic heroes (pictured below) led a violent uprising against Philip the Fair, then Willem van Saeftinghe and then the Count of Flanders.  



Stadhuis or Old Town Hall (1376) is the Gothic building with the flags.  Just to the left is the opening that leads to Blind Donkey Alley and the fish market. The Renaissance period Old Civil Registry (1537)  is to the right.  It was once the Old Court House. 

Pictured below is The Palace of the Liberty of Bruges, the center of government from the late Middle Ages until 1795.  This palace later served as the Old Court House for nearly 200 years. Atop the building's large, central dormer stands a bronzed statue of the blindfolded Lady Justice and on either side of Justice, on a pair of smaller dormers, are statues of Moses and Aaron, also in bronze.






Government Building






Basilica of the Holy Blood.  Basilica of the Holy Blood Chapel is Roman Catholic and houses the relic of the Holy Blood.  It is located on Burg Square.  The relic is said to contain the blood of Jesus Christ.  The phial is made of rock crystal and was a Byzantine perfume bottle.  It is sealed and has never been opened.


Art of Lace Making - I have never seen anything so complicated done so quickly.  You need to watch a YouTube video.  The process is amazing.  They use pins, bobbins, thread and do a lot of twisting.  They make whole stitches and half stitches.  A whole stitch requires moving two sets of two bobbins. You must keep your bobbins in proper order Then you need to put a pin in and you need to cover with a whole stitch again.   I was amazed at how quickly they do this.  Pictured below.


Flanders Field is an optional tour. On August 4, 1914, The German army invaded Belgium.  In Oct/Nov1914, the first battle of Ypres/Battle of Flanders was trench warfare with more than 100,000 casualties. Opening the locks caused flooding and helped to stop the Germans.  Both sides dug themselves in along the Western Front.   Bread rationing began in 1/1915.  March of 1915, several thousand women demonstrated for peace before the German Parliament.  In the second battle of Ypres (4/22 -5/15, 1915), the Germans surprise attack included poison chlorine gas, Ten thousand allied troops were impacted and about half of them died.  The Germans did not realize the full effect of the gas.  There were 100,000 casualties.  

The fields today where the poison chlorine gas was released when the wind was blowing in the right direction.  

The Allied forces battled back with underground mines.  May of 1915, a German u-boat sank the Lusitania and 1,198 drowned.  In 4/1916, Belgian workers, equal numbers of men and women,  were deported to Germany to work.  On 5/1916, anti-war demonstrations took place in Germany.  May of 1916, Woodrow Wilson put pressure on Germany and they end submarine warfare.  April of 1917, Pres. Wilson declares war.  From July 31 - Nov 10, 1917, the third battle of Ypres has British artillery firing 4,283,550 shells at the German lines with 400,000-800,000 casualties.  This was the first time the Germans used mustard gas which blistered skin, eyes, lungs and killed thousands of soldiers in a slow, painful way.    The fourth battle between April 9-29, 1918 had about 200,000 casualties.  The fifth battle of Ypres took place between Sept 28 -Oct 2, 1918 with Allied casualties at 10,000 and German casualties unknown.      

Bunkers are buried along the trenches.  The wounded were sorted there.  Some bandaged and returned to battle, some sent for more serious medical attention and some given morphine to ease their passing.  During battles, iron doors were closed and the only air came in through a six-inch pipe out through the top while the injured lay close together in the dark.


Bunkers where the injured soldiers were sorted.

Some trenches have been preserved.  

The town of Ypres was destroyed and was rebuilt exactly as it was before the war.    

There are 160 cemeteries within twenty-five square miles holding over 500,000 men.  Belgium gave the land for the Allies.  Four German cemeteries are somber, depressing and dark and Germany must pay rent.  On average 200 tons of iron are brought up out of the ground each year.  Some rounds are live.  The Belgian Bomb Disposal Unit collects these bombs and gas canisters.  The backlog for destroying them is 26,000.   


Tyne Cot War Cemetery with markers and also names listed on the wall surrounding the Cemetery.  It is the largest cemetery for Commonwealth forces in the world with almost 12,000 headstones and panels.   



This cross is located in the Tyne Cot Cemetery.



Menin Gate’s Last Post Ceremony takes place at 8:00 PM every day since 1928 in memory of the British soldiers who gave their lives for the Belgian people.  The Menin Gate is a war memorial for British and Commonwealth soldiers whose bodies were never found.  The huge Hall of Memory contains the names of 54,896 soldiers.  Menin Gate is pictured below.  


Menin’s Gate. Moving ceremony 8:00.


Bruges is a lovely city.







It’s clear that I enjoyed the canal boat ride.


Great day.  Walked around taking pictures from 8-9:00.  Walking tour 9:00-11:40.  Quick lunch.  World War I Excursion.  Home about 9:15.  Getting organized for tomorrow and flight to Manchester on Wednesday.  Reorganizing for flight to Philadelphia Thursday.  I have a lot more pictures from today, but another busy day tomorrow so going to bed.