Day 69 Fri Mar 24 Lome, Togo 9-7:00

 Day 69 Fri Mar 24 Lome, Togo  9-7:00

Traditional Togo (LFW-006)

March 24, 2023

Port: Lome

Tour Length: Half-Day (Approximately 4 1/2 hours)

Tour Description

View a market where voodoo healers purchase ingredients for ceremonies, charms and potions.  (This was interesting; voodoo dolls, masks, skulls, dead animals not skinned,)

Tour a Togolese village school to discover how rural children are educated.  (We stopped there and the children came out but it was mostly pandemonium and I learned nothing.  As a retired teacher,  I would have been  the teacher who was a nervous wreck with the situation.)

Encounter the village’s royal court and receive an introduction to the local monarch. (This was a cool experience.)

Join the monarch for a joyous folkloric performance enhanced with soul-stirring drumming.

Revel in time on your own to immerse yourself in village life. (10-15 Minutes)  Experienced welcome ceremony, women’s band and dancers, royal court entry and seating, and information was shared.There were a lot of goats roaming freely.  A woman was cooking in a pot over an open fire and another woman was hand washing in tubs outside her house.

Behold the distinctive African traditions of Togo by visiting a market for voodoo practitioners, touring a rural school and watching a folkloric dance with a village monarch. Enjoy a brief drive through Lomé, an engaging capital city of wide boulevards lined with colonial buildings. You’ll find that, although the country’s religion is predominately Christian, many of the people remain faithful to the religious ancestry of voodoo, which you’ll see at an open-air market frequented by traditional healers seeking ingredients for rituals or the creation of magic charms and potions. Following this compelling and rather unusual visit, travel into the countryside to a Togolese village school, where you’ll learn how rural children cope with Togo’s educational challenges. You’ll find the nearby ceremonial grounds and meet the village’s distinguished royal court, who will introduce you to the local monarch. After an enlightening presentation of tribal customs, sit with the monarch for a rousing folk dance performance accompanied by traditional rhythmic drumming. You’ll relish free time after the entertainment to explore the village, absorbing the charisma of this intriguing land.

Lome Beach Marche aux Fetishes, Cathedrale du Sacre Coeur de Lome, Monument de l’Independence, Musee International du Golfe de Guinee, Musee National du Togo, Grand Marche, Togolese Villages on TV

This tour includes approximately 90 minutes of easy-to-moderate walking/standing, plus any additional walking at the guest’s discretion during free time. There will be some uneven and natural surfaces to negotiate. Please keep in mind that you are visiting a destination where conditions and equipment may not be up to the same standards that are available in other areas of the world; however, they will be the best available. Guests who go ashore do so with the understanding that they will be mixing with members of the general public.

Togo is a narrow country in West Africa squeezed between Ghana and Benin.  Lome is the capital and largest city.  Togo offers  an international airport, highways and trains.  In 1897, it was under German control, 1919 it was under French control, and in 1960 Togo became independent.  

Lome is the chief port and exports coffee, cocoa, cotton, copra, and oil palm kernels. Copra is the dried, white flesh of the coconut from which coconut oil is extracted.  The oil extracted is rich in lauric acid and is used in soaps, cosmetics, etc.   Lome is the country’s administrative and industrial center and has an oil refinery.  The Togo National Museum is in the Palais de Congres and contains jewelry, musical instruments, dolls, pottery weapons and examples of art and traditions.  Political instability since 1990. 

                                     In my opinion, this was a great welcome.  The men in the back with the orange

                                       vests are the officials who will clear the ship.    

Our first stop of the day was the Voodoo Market

                                                Stop in to see your local witch doctor.

Our second stop was at a school.

Our third stop was with the Village Chief

                                            Women singing, playing, dancing

                                                        Welcome Ceremony

                                    The Village Chief and his court

                                                Woman cooking over an open fire.

                                            Woman hand washing the clothing

                            Nancy Jacobs, this goat is for you.  They roam freely in the village.

Day 68 Thurs March 23 Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana 8-5:00

 Day 68  Thurs March 23 Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana 8-5:00

Twin City of Sekondi-Takoradi (TKD-003)

March 23, 2023

Port: Sekondi-Takoradi

Tour Length: Half-Day (Approximately 3 1/4 hours)

Tour Description

Discover a virgin forest filled with monkeys and exotic birds at Monkey Hill (a tropical reserve for primates)  in metropolitan Takoradi. (There were no monkeys.  Some of us were told the monkeys were relocated because of interference from people and others were told the monkeys only come out very early or late in the day.)

See the European influence on Sekondi in its colonial architecture and tree-lined residential neighborhoods.

Observe the lively activity of Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor. (Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor is one of two fishing harbors in Ghana.  In 2016,  expansion works began on the harbour.  This allowed for an increase to number of canoes and boats.   A Japanese grant of $20 million was secured by the port authority to complete the project.  The expansion works included the construction of the ice making plant.  It is able to produce 15 tons of ice per day.)

View imposing Fort Orange lighthouse and Takoradi Market Circle, a commercial and economic hub.

Revel in a joyous cultural show with refreshments at a local hotel.  (This show included music and dancing and was very enjoyable.  It was a hot day and I was grateful for the cold drink they served out of the original containers.) 

Explore a monkey-filled forest, bustling markets, cultural landmarks and historic sites during this scenic tour of Sekondi and Takoradi, combined as one since 1946. Learn about Ghana’s main exports as you cross the harbor to Takoradi’s Western Gate. You’ll marvel at the unique virgin forest inhabited by scores of monkeys and birds at Monkey Hill, situated in the heart of Takoradi. Drive through the European-style town of Sekondi, passing aged colonial buildings, the stately High Court and tree-shaded residential areas. During a stop at the bustling Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor, watch nets being repaired and women buying and preparing the fish. You’ll view Fort Orange’s impressive lighthouse and the Takoradi Market Circle, Western Ghana’s commercial and economic hub. Stop for a spirited cultural show with refreshments at a local hotel and reflect on the distinct personalities of Western Ghana’s thriving twin cities.

Sekondi-Takoradi is one of the most modern and cleanest cities in Ghana. It had a population of 445, 205 people (2012).  It is an industrial and commercial center.  Industries include fishing, timber, cocoa processing, plywood, shipbuilding, sweet crude oil and crude oil. There are plenty of beaches.  The climate is tropical savanna.   In March, the average high is 87.8 and the average low is 73.6.  The average rainfall is 3.1 inches.   

We had a police escort today which helped me to feel safer.  The police led our caravan of three buses.  

Random information from my guide, who spoke English well and was loud enough to be heard.   Ghana has sixteen regions, I am in the west now.  There are 32 million people.   The railroad brought about a better economy and the rail lines are used to bring raw materials to the port.  Fishing is an important industry on the coast and farming is important in other areas. There is no fishing on Tuesday and if caught the fisherman will pay a fine.  Tuesdays are time to repair the nets and the boat.   Ghana is the second largest producer of cocoa.  In the docking area, there was a ship that uses gas to create electricity.  It is always summer in Ghana.  There is a rainy season.  

The British were in control of Ghana until 1957.  The flag has red, gold and green blocks with a black star in the middle. Seventy to eighty percent of the people are Christian. 

The people speak 70 different dialects.  Culturally, greetings are offered with the left hand.  Chief priests are the head of the family and the ultimate chief is the head of the people in the community.  Heritage allowed a man to become the chief.  Power and respect vary in the position.  There are rules to follow to determine what heirs can become chief. Marriage rules are to be followed, a marriage is to every member of the spouse’s family. The entire family must agree on the marriage. If I visit, I can help myself to anything in the house.  When I visit I should take a gift for others in the family. When a baby is born, it stays in the house for eight days and is then named. Children’s names identify what day of the week the child was born. On Monday, a girl’s name is Agra.   If a child is disrespectful to an adult in the community, that adult can swat the child.  Then the parent is told and the parent will swat the child too.  What color I wear depends on my age.  White is for old people.  People eat a heavy breakfast and a light lunch.  Cassava, plantain, tomato stew, peanut butter soup are all common choices.  Goats wander around.  

Albert Bosomtwi-Sam Fishing Harbor is one of two fishing harbors in Ghana.  In 2016,  expansion works began on the harbor.  This allowed for an increase to number of canoes and boats.   A Japanese grant of $20 million was secured by the port authority to complete the project.  The expansion works included the construction of the ice making plant.  It is able to produce 15 tons of ice per day.

Each rectangle on the floor can be slid right or left.  Then the crane like apparatus lifts the set of blocks of ice.  They are rolled over to a vat and then soaked in water to release the ice.  The blocks come out and are placed behind the machine where the man is.  Then I assume they used or are stored in a freezer.

                                        The fish market was a loud, crowded place.  

                                                                Fishing boats above.  

                                Fish market above and below.  Crazy crowded and loud.

The picture above is a ship that creates electricity for Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana.

After our day, the last stop was for singing, drumming and dancing at a resort that also offered us a cold beverage on a hot day.

                                Dancers for our entertainment at the resort.  

                                                                        Roadside sales.

                                                The black car was our police escort for the day.  

Day 64, 65, 66, 67 Wed Mar 22 Abidjan, Ivory Coast 10-7:00

Day 64  Sun Mar 19, 2023  Banjul, Gambia  My tour was canceled by the operator.  It was a UNESCO site and was the basis of Alex Haley's novel, Roots.  Disappointing.

Day 65 Mon Mar 20  Cruise Atlantic Ocean

Day 66 Tues Mar 21 Cruise Atlantic Ocean

Day 67 Wed Mar 22  Abidjan, Ivory Coast 10-7:00  Very HOT.  Euros

Grand Bassam (ABJ-001)

March 22, 2023

Port: Abidjan

Tour Length: Full-Day (Approximately 8 hours)

View the colonial buildings of Grand Bassam, which was briefly the capital of the Ivory Coast in the 1890s. Gain a greater understanding of the Ivory Coast through fascinating exhibits at the National Costume Museum.  Lunch at the oceanside Assoyam Beach Resort and perhaps enjoy an invigorating dip afterward.  Browse Grand Bassam’s finest craft market and appreciate the handiwork of local artisans.

Venture to Grand Bassam, the former colonial capital of the Ivory Coast, tucked between a lagoon and the ocean, on this coach tour. Observe abundant coconut groves before arriving in Grand Bassam village, briefly the French colonial capital of the Côte d’Ivoire in the late 1890s until government administration was transferred to nearby Bingerville. View splendid French Colonial buildings in the Ancient Bassam district during your narrated tour.  Some are restored to their original grandeur and pass sights such as the colonial governor’s palace. In the fascinating National Costume Museum, browse exhibits of colorful native garb, ceremonial masks and models of traditional houses and gain a deeper understanding of the history of the Ivory Coast. You’ll visit the seaside Assoyam Beach Resort for a delectable lunch and enjoy a refreshing dip in the ocean afterward, if you wish. Wander through one of Grand Bassam’s finest arts and crafts markets with ample time to survey exquisite brass carvings, colorful batik paintings, eye-catching ceramics, intricate wickerwork and finely embroidered scarves in a dazzling display of Ivory Coast artistry.

                                                    Batik in the arts and crafts market in the morning.

Abidjan is the largest city of the Ivory Coast.  It wraps around Ebrie Lagoon.  It is called the “Paris of Africa” because it is one of the world’s largest French-speaking cities.  The Vridi Canal connected the lagoon to the city and the city became a major port.  Abidjan exports coffee, cocoa, timber, bananas, pineapples, and manganese.  

Abidjan is the largest city of the Ivory Coast.  It wraps around Ebrie Lagoon.  It is called the “Paris of Africa” because it is one of the world’s largest French-speaking cities.  In 2021, the census indicated the population was 6.3 million.  There is a high level of industrialization and urbanization.  Major industries include food processing, car manufacturing, lumber, textiles, chemicals, and soap.  The nightlife in Abidjan is considered one of the liveliest in all of Africa.  

We had a police escort today primarily to facilitate our travel through the cities.  There were three to four motorcycles that moved traffic to the side and allowed us to travel quickly.  There were also local? police who blocked the intersections. in the urban areas.  

We visited a lovely, modern chruch with beautiful stained glass windows for a very short time.  A classic African art museum was another quick stop.  We then went to a second marketplace where I bought a dress in the short amount of time we were there.  I knew we were tight on time and returned to the bus early.  Twelve buses returned at the same time which caused long waits.  Luckily our bus #5, pulled to the front of the line and we were at least closer to the front than the back.   

In my opinion, there were too many stops and we rushed through the last ones, where most of us would have preferred to spend more time.   

                                                               National Costume Museum 

Craft Market in the morning

                                                Picture below is from a cultural museum we visited in the afternoon.  

The collection below was at the entrance to the craft market we visited in the afternoon.  

Day 64 Sun Mar 19, 2023 Banjul, The Gambia

 Day 64  Sun Mar 19, 2023  Banjul, The Gambia

CANCELLED BY OPERATOR My tour was to the area that was the basis of Alex Haley's novel, Roots.

Roots Juffureh River Cruise 

March 19, 2023

Port: Banjul

I was disappointed again because my UNESCO tour was cancelled.  

Banjul, Gambia is one of Africa’s smallest cities.  It is on St. Mary’s Island at the mouth of the Gambia River.  It still has a village-like atmosphere and the population is 40,000. The official name of the country is The Gambia. 

The officials were on time to clear the boat at our arrival and we were able to start tours on time.  There were policemen outside our ship all day.  I felt this country put a lot of effort into welcoming us.  

I took the shuttle provided for us to go the market place.  The sights along the way were distressing.  I saw dilapitated buildings, evidence of extreme poverty and a lot of garbage.  I was relieved when we arrived at the market and realized a guide was coming along with us into the market.  He knew all the vendors and kept a close eye on us.  I would say that the poverty in this city is equal to the poverty in Cambodia.  

I will also say that the people could not have been any nicer.  They were not agressive and actually coached us in the bargaining process.  I paid the least amount of money at the port for what I bought today and that is not supposed to happen.  There was a group of indigenous people that played drums and danced off and on throughout the entire day.  There was also a police band which played from late morning until the time we were supposed to leave.  We were late leaving as the majority of the tours were late returning.  

                                        Policemen outside our ship.

                                        Policemen's Band played throughout the day.

                                    There is a power station ship that provides Banjul's power.

                                    As we were leaving Banjul, a large ferry was coming into port.

                                     I saw a lot of trucks with similar, fancy paint jobs.

                                        The Ariania was another ship in port.

                                    
                            The power station ship for Banjul, The Gambia.

Day 63 Sat. Mar 18 Dakar, Senegal 8-6:00

 Day 62  Friday, Mar 17  Sea day Atlantic

Day 63  Sat. Mar 18  Dakar, Senegal  8-6:00   

We were warned that things do not always go smoothly in Africa.  The officials were not at the port when we arrived which delayed our tours starting.  When the officials arrived it took a while to clear the ship.  After the ship was cleared, I went to the Lounge where our tours depart from.  The room was packed with people waiting to be called to go on their tour.  We were taking a ferry to Goree Island and were the last group to be called.

The officials decided we could not board the ferry by our ship.  We would need to be transported to the ferry terminal which meant the tour operators needed to come up with buses to transport us.  The ferry terminal wasn't far away, but being an industrial port it was too dangerous for us to walk.  I am sure our ferry was overloaded, but luckily we made it safely to and from Goree Island.  

Unforgettable Goree Island (DKR-002)

March 18, 2023

Port: Dakar

Tour Length: Half-Day (Approximately 4 hours)

See where slaves were held before being shipped to the New World at Gorée Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Hear about the poor conditions under which the captives were quartered at the House of Slaves.

Survey the 1830 Saint Charles Church and a fortress featuring a monument to African slaves.

Spend time on your own exploring the housing where slaves were kept and the Gate of No Return.

Sip on a refreshing soft drink at a welcoming Gorée Island restaurant.

Visit notorious Gorée Island, a UNESCO World Heritage site where countless captured Africans were held before being shipped to the New World as slaves. Board a chartered ferry and venture to Gorée Island, where the slave trade flourished for more than 350 years beginning in the 15th century. Upon arrival, you’ll discover the House of Slaves, where the curator will detail the cruelty of life during the dark days when man was a mere commodity. Learn that the upstairs of this infamous house was formerly occupied by slave traders and the downstairs reserved for slaves, who lived in abominable conditions.

You’ll take in sites such as the 1830 Saint Charles Church and a fortress with a towering monument memorializing Africans who were brutalized and dehumanized. Following your guided tour, spend time wandering about the stark island and exploring the buildings and cells once used to house the men, women and children, who were shackled around the neck and arms, and view the Gate of No Return, where they last glimpsed their homeland before being loaded on ships bound for the New World. Over a cooling soft drink at a local restaurant, contemplate this memorable and exceptionally moving experience.

Ile de Goree/Goree Island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was the center of a thriving slave trade 350 years ago.  Slave traders and their property lived in Maison des Esclaves prior to auctions.  Ships were boarded to take the slaves to the New World through the Gate of No Return

          The slaves left through this opening, "The Gate of No Return" and got on the ship that took them to a life of slavery.

There would be 10 to 15 slaves in a room that measured about ten feet by ten feet.  

The man in the red plaid told us about life in the slave house.  There was a room for men, a room for women, a room for children and a room for young girls.  The slave traders would choose a young girl to have sex with.  One guide said if she got pregnant, she could stay on the island.  Another guide said that the girl delivered the child, the child was thrown into the ocean.  The house of slaves was built by an Afro-French Metis family about 1780-1784.  It is one of the oldest houses on the island.  I read today that it may not be true that the slaves were sent to America from Goree Island.  Some believe the slaves were for local owners, not for international trade.  

This room was under the stairs and was the punishment room. 

                                                                1830 Saint Charles Church 

Goree Island Fortress 

                                            Goree Island Fort above and below

                                                    Goree Island

                                                Goree Island Fort

                                            Art created with sand.

                                            Children in the center square

                                                        Sand Art

                                            Former palace

                                            Women selling their wares in the square.  

The Mercy Ship is the hospital for Dakar.  There are operating rooms on board.  A woman I met on my ship was a volunteer for three month on this Mercy Ship.  

                                    Believe it or not, these girls were swimming in these outfits.  

                                            Goats after their bath in the ocean.

Fran is on the World Cruise with me.  She volunteered on this Mercy Ship recently.